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Candy, a big sweet clue to Americans' relationship with mass-produced food

For more than a century, we've simultaneously gorged on and felt guilty about candy — an intensified version of our ambivalent and fickle attitudes toward abundant, convenient, mass-produced food in general. Foto: AP/Chris O'Meara

Candy is essential to understanding the history of how Americans eat.

So says retired Rutgers literature professor Samira Kawash, who investigated the surprisingly neglected story of how business and technological innovations turned the U.S. into what a 1907 visitor called "the great candy eating nation."..

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