What it's like to visit Paris right now

A replica of the 16th-century sculptor Giambologna's 'Rape of the Sabine Women', one of nine wax figures that comprise Urs Fischer's 2011-2020 work "Untitled" at the "Ouverture" exhibition in the Boerse De Commerce in Paris on May 14, 2021. Foto: Bloomberg/Jeanne Frank

When Parisians woke up on May 19, they found a city reborn. Overnight, the curfew had been pushed back to 9 p.m. from 7 p.m. The streets surrounding Opera Garnier went from pin-drop silent to bustling, with locals eager for the first "cafés en terrasse'' since October. Not too far away, in the lively Pigalle district, the excitement was such that bistro owners served their first pints before 10 a.m.

It was the first sign that Paris was gradually waking up from months of stringent restrictions...

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